Final: Hilt design
This is the design I managed to create in Vector-works. As far as aesthetically, this is not the most beautiful sword hilt that has ever been designed, but on the subject of precision, this sword hilt will fit the specifications to hold a steel replacement blade that may be bought from Rogue Steel. I wanted to start by getting the measurements for what replacement blades are then design my hilt to fit it. From here I will be able to get more creative with the cross guard, handle segments and pommel, but I thought it would be important to be sure that the practicality of all these pieces fitting together would be my first priority. The pommel and cross guard will be made of metal. I will start by making this in the 4 axis mill out of aluminum. The two segmented handle pieces, on the other hand, I would like to carve from the lathe. My only drawback is that they need to be identical in shape and size to fit together, but they would be made of different wood materials. There is also the struggle of creating a rectangular hole through the middle of each of them, I am still curious as to how I will do that.
In the lower left photo is a visual aids on the segments that make up the swords hilt: The cross guard, the wood handle joints, and the pommel at the end. In the Lower left photo, I highlighted where the tang of the sword would be running through. This piece comes with the replacement blade I will be buying to complete this piece. The tang runs from the forte of the blade through the multiple segments of the hilt and should ideally screw into the pommel at the end to make the sword feel complete as one piece. I could not get the exact measurement of what that screw at the end of the tang would be so I just left the tang in its proper width, height and length, without tapering towards a screw until I can get those official measurements. You can also see that I spread the segments of the sword out to make the separate pieces more visible, Ideally there would be no gap between sections. It has made me considering adding a few small rings that would give a nice texture to the hands while holding the hilt and a space for the tightening pieces to expand into as part of the final product, but we will get there as I start working on this for more aesthetic means rather than practical means. As of right now, this is the design for a proper stage combat long sword which will require both wood and metal fabrication.
CAD In Progress for final:
For my final I wanted to design an Aluminum sword. I am not positive if the 4 axis mill is long enough to cut the blade itself, but there are definitely materials aside from aluminum that I would like to use to make the hilt. I've made a few designs for what the hilt might look like but haven't reached a conclusion on what I'd like. I might ultimately use an outside vendor for the actual fabrication of this sword. My intention is to use this as a stage combat blade, so I would like it to be durable enough to actually be used for theatrical productions.
At the moment I've only been able to sketch some ideas that I would like to see, but for my final I'd like to make a working prototype on what the 3D model would look like for all the pieces that make up this blade. I want to make all of the pieces separately in a way that they can fit to each other and I can also separately edit them over time.
This sword is one that I've had my eye on from the New York Renaissance Faire for a while. It is being sold from Capricorn, a BKS vendor, and It is out of my price range but I would like to use this as inspiration for making a custom piece.
Exploding Box w/ Vinyl Cutter:
Experiments with the Vinyl Cutter:
Magnetized Bear Bottle Opener for a fridge
My goal for this presentation was to make a mounted bottle opener for a fridge that would be magnetized in two directions. One direction would be on the corners of the mount so the piece could sit well on a fridge, the other direction would face forward just below a bottle opener so the caps could be caught as they fall.
For this project I would use a 1/4" End Mill on the CNC to cut out a piece of plywood in my desired shape, along with five pocket inlay holes for my magnets cut to fit snugly. Likely, I would have to glue the magnets into the holes so they stayed solid, but ideally there would not be much wiggle room to begin with.
The smaller Magnets are about .76" and the larger magnet is about 2.1"
The piece in length is about 8" x 5"
[Below is the design]
The next step would have been for me to use the router on my design to get a nice clean corner on my CNC'd piece.
I was going to next use the laser cutter to engrave the words "Grin and Bear it" on my piece.
Next My place was to do a good session of multi grade sanding.
Then I wanted to stain the wood with an English chestnut product a few times before finally attaching the magnets and the bear face bottle opener.
Week 2: Using the CNC
Week 1: Using the Router